AND TODAY IN 90’S EDITORIAL GOODNESS, we bring you more 90s-pop-feminism-influenced fashion-androgyny by which I mean “Stella Tennant and then some nakie models with messy hair,” plus the last time that neon opaque blue and yellow lipstick was a thing! 

Previously: Arena Homme eds by Stevens Meisel & Klein, the Self Service archives, and more Arena Homme from ‘96. It’s okay if you go ahead and print it all out and paper your walls with it, ‘cuz I was thinking about that too.

[Via the TFS vintage magazines thread, which I could obviously spend weeks browsing.]

For whatever reason I’ve been sort of not super jazzed up on fashion lately? Maybe it’s winter blues (no snow but I still have to wear tights and 47 layers every day!? what is this!?) or maybe it’s that I’ve been busy with 18 other projects — but the good ole “fashion blogging universe” has just sort of been not keeping my attention super well this past month or so.

But! Let’s not be depressing! So instead of talking about my irritation at this (lies, I’ll just talk about it parenthetically! check it out! a bunch of old white dudes and a few token black guys and a lady or two! how interesting! and by interesting I mean “god how depressing is everything ever” but ANYHOW) let’s feel enthusiastic about lady photographers and how much I love New York, right?! As if I don’t post about these things enough!  But these people seem obvious to me but maybe you have not encountered them before, so.  Berenice Abbott!

Berenice Abbott’s “Changing New York” — her exhaustive collection of photos of New York in the 1930’s, the archives of which now live over at the NYPL — is awesome for all of the reasons we always love photos of New York in ages past, right?  It’s part “Oh snap! That’s the Starrett Lehigh building! Once I totally bombed an interview at a studio there!” and part fascination at the things we don’t recognize; something both familiar and bittersweet about the things that are both the same despite the things that are different, like the persistent stark contrast of poverty and wealth, of new and old, that seems in so many ways to define this city.  

There’s also the fact that while Abbott was known primarily for her photographs of New York (and a bunch of boring science stuff, like photographing balls in motion yaawwwwnnnn) those of us in on the joke can deduce pretty quickly what “lived with Djuna Barnes in the Village for a while” probably means.  (Unsurprisingly, some of her photos are in that Hide/Seek show at the Brooklyn Museum that I still haven’t gone to because I suck but I’m going Thursday I swear!)  Abbott’s portraits — of herself, of Barnes, Janet Flanner, Gertrude Stein, Edna St Vincent Millay, Betty Parsons, and more — can be read also as a not-so-subtle but still-unspoken record of queer identities in her era in New York and Paris. Cool!

NINA LEEN

Russian-born Nina Leen was one of the first female photographers to shoot for LIFE magazine, which, fortunately for us, means there’s a ton of her work available on the Google LIFE photo archives. While mostly known for her work with animals (including a dog named Lucky that she adopted and apparently put hats on), it’s Leen’s photographs of women that I find most fascinating.  Admittedly, to some extent the period of time in which she was working for LIFE — the late 40s through the 1950s — dictated that bizarre style of “it’s totally not posed, I swear, I just stand this awkwardly and grin with a box of kitchen supplies all the time, not to mention we are all white and very happy all the time” photography. (The original “woman laughing alone with salad?”)

But when juxtaposed with her more candid shots (a girl falling down at a skating rink, a woman on the phone in an office, women trying on shoes, cleaning their living rooms, browsing stores) they provide a surprising amount of insight into the expectations versus reality of being a young woman in that era.  Exposé photoessays on the work of housewives or of young working girls (like we know from Mad Men, most of them are either secretaries or models) ran in contrast to Upper East Side socialites walking their dogs or glamorous women in evening gowns posed like mannequins.  Intentionally or otherwise, her work as a whole provides an interesting study on idealized femininity and the public versus private lives of women and the world, separate from that of men, in which they were forced to exist.

More photos after the jump.

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MONTHLY PICSPAM/MOODBOARD/WHATEVZ TIME Y’ALL. More of the usual, it seems: apparently all I want this winter is still serious big pastel or blonde hair with drawn-on eyebrows (sound familiar?) and lace-up boots and crop tops with ratty layers and major 90’s vixen babetown vibes and bra tops and fur and maybe some weird athletic wear mixed in there too? I don’t know. I dyed my girlfriend’s hair cotton candy pink and got her a white studded belt for her birthday, I guess I’m still majorly regressing. That’s okay, right?

Miliyah Kato x Saga Sig — a little reminiscent of all those photos of Eriko Nakao I posted a while back, no? Totally epic, and now all I want to do is match neon periwinkle eyeshadow and nail polish or put weird temp tats on my face and neck.

Monthly inspiration, late October version: more shabby layers and 90’s references, California/Jersey trash, candy hair and clunky shoes, but mixed up with slightly dishevelled heavy-handed overdone classic Hollywood glam, big curls and red lips…. thigh high fishnets and creepers, leopard print and florals and a baseball hat, big hoop earrings and pencil skirts and ratty tees and maybe an old fur coat. (How perfect is that photo of Freja Beha?!)  Some sort of failed delusions of grandeur with a thrift store wardrobe, a set of curlers (do you know how many times I have googled permutations of “Veronica Lake setting pattern”  in the past week?) serious boots and major eyeliner. 

Guess it goes hand in hand with being newly blonde (though not as blonde as I’m eventually going, that shit’s not easy to get overnight) and packing on the eyeliner again and “figuring out how to style my hair like a girl instead of like a wet rat who just lost a fight with a lawnmower” and making vapid faces into photobooth since my apartment is too small to shoot in, it’s dark out on my roof once I get home from work and I don’t have a bright enough flash, and whatever other excuses I’ve got to make for not posting this past week, like maybe PLANNING MY EPIC HALLOWEEN COSTUME OH MY GOD YOU GUYS ARE GONNA DIE.


I should probably just print these out and stick them all over my walls around my garment rack (closets? who has closets?) for those what-am-i-going-to-wear-today crises, shouldn’t I?

(Source: saganendalausa.blogspot.com)

Tags: photo fashion

Because sometimes we all need a little personal reference board of “how the hell do I want to dress myself this month again I can’t remember what kind of clothes I was into HELP INTERNET PLEASE ADVISE.”

Karmen Pedaru by Fabien Baron for Interview.  So, who wants to go to Beacon’s Closet with me and buy a bunch of ugly mismatched coloured things and shiny black lipstick and then run around looking like this always, do I have any volunteers, what do you mean no, what is wrong with you people

BUT EITHER WAY here’s the thing about re-posting editorials: I think I devote way too much time to trying to figure them out. Like, is that really Broadway in Brooklyn and why did I never think about the fact that using a wide-angle near the ground in that lot over by the Broadway G stop would be an awesome place to take photos, wait no those big white tank things in the background, that must be in Queens or LIC somewhere or elsewhere in Brooklyn where there’s el trains, and was he using a softbox or a ring flash, or is that somehow natural light, no probably a ring flash with that kind of fill right? And also doesn’t this somehow remind you of that Milla Jovovich editorial that I had to google weird things for 15 minutes (“Milla punk androgyny” “Milla skinhead 80s” “Milla Jovovich versace punk editorial 90s”) before finding it again BUT I DID because my bizarre memory for photographs I saw once three years ago somehow trumps all (like “did I remember to turn off the lights this morning OH GOD”) and also that gorgeous Mert and Marcus Red Hook ed? Seriously though that has to be a ring flash, right? 

Either way, at the very least I think this glitter black nail polish thing needs to happen in my life pretty much now.

Missing fall clothes, wool, layers, earth tones, boots - and suddenly wanting a probably ill-advised bang trim. Tanga Moreau by Dancian for Marie Claire Italia August 2011.

(Source: fashiongonerogue.com)

Wait, guys, hold on. Like seriously? I need another minute to process this? Tao in Freja-drag?!

I don’t even know where to begin dissecting this one, but let’s just start with a little lol at the “handsome girl” headline (is this Engrish for ‘lezbochic?’) and then just suck it all up and admit that THIS IS BASICALLY AWESOME and also the makeup is really stellar and a lot of looks I’ve been into lately (outside of alien-face and orange lipstick, that is) — that brick red lipstick and the gunmetal eyeshadows in particular — but like, seriously you guys, Tao dressed up as Freja in Vogue China, mimicking a lot of shots from previous editorials I have freaked out over (Twin mag, i-D) multiple times, this is happening here. ALSO! I CALLED IT! Cartilage ring! They are back! I told you! I knew I wouldn’t regret that piercing when I got it at Afterthoughts in the mall almost 15 years ago! IT IS COMING BACK.

self service magazine, 1997-2002

I can’t get over the absolute goldmine that is Self Service’s new online archive — I think I saved half a dozen images from every issue posted to my hard drive and Pinterest today.  I wish I could take all my damn outfit photos on a disposable camera, complete with date stamp and requisite lens-viewfinder parallax-induced decapitation due to double lens reflex. Also maybe I need to wear only one hoop earring and frosted lipstick at all times from here on out, yes? I swear that photo above just suddenly made me get the whole Chloe Sevigny thing for basically the first time ever.

Most of it just speaks for itself — more after the jump, but it’s totally worth dedicating an hour to browse the whole collection as well.

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bon duke x vanessa hegelmaier for stylecaster

Loving basically everything about this ed from, of all places, Stylecaster by photographer Bon Duke — the makeup! (green eyeshadow in the inner corners?! THOSE EYEBROWS!) the hair! the layers and the mix of 90s punk tomboy streetwear and then the slick red, black, white, and leopard!  all that stuff from Bess, I will never get tired of stylists putting something from Bess into every shoot they do! the heavy-handed cross-process filter, everything, everything blue and yellow all of the time! Jumping around in Chinatown! Unnecessary headphones in shots in case we didn’t get that it was “edgy” even though it’s really just product placement! All that Givenchy! $19,821 outfits that I can recreate with pocket change on St Marks! All of these things! I like all of these things! Rest after the jump.

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HEDI SLIMANE

You know, just when I go blogging about how I’m so tired of Hedi Slimane style photos and of studs on everything for the past three years, these show up, and I have to eat my words.  [from Hedi Slimane diary via CBD]

More after the jump.

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danny lyon | brooklyn, summer 1974

How wonderful are these photos of Brooklyn in the summer of 1974, from photographer Danny Lyon? For the unacquainted, as always: Lyon, along somewhat more widely acclaimed contemporaries Mary Ellen Mark, Robert Frank, and Larry Clark, was among the photojournalists known for their focus on imperfect reality and on the photographers’ involvement with their subjects’ lives, rather than striving for well-composed, technically perfect images from a physical and emotional distance.  

Lyon’s deliberate choice to embrace imperfections — most of these photos are ill-exposed, crooked, blurred, or interrupted by a too-close body or object — belies his empathetic intent: the heat and energy and constant buzz of the city comes through here in ways that “better” photographs don’t permit.  The images here call to mind Helen Levitt, Walker Evans, and a grittier, less “fashionable” version of Bruce Davidson’s Brooklyn Gang.  Also: restraining myself from gushing again about the warmth and grain and depth of fields of old film photography but that horse has been dead for ages so I’m only going to passive aggressively mention it in passing (o see what i did thar?)

Plenty more of these after the jump, but also worth noting are Lyon’s images of Chicago motorcycle gangs in The Bikeriders, which put LIFE magazine’s documentation of motorcycle gangs sorely to shame.

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