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new york hardcore

I’m sorry, how cool are these?  This summer I queued-to-post-but-didn’t (this is how this blog actually works, by the way, as if it was run by a CRAZY PERSON)  KT Auleta’s hardcore-inspired spread with Tasha Tilberg from Twin Magazine, because it, I don’t know, felt weird and stylized and like too clean or something, and I felt like I was maybe only into it because they totally made her look like the girls I had crushes on in high school when I was going to craptacular NJ hardcore/emo shows before I actually knew that I had crushes on them and thought I just wanted their moshpit sweat/haircut in like a really intense way or something, and because the styling was just, like, how I dress on a daily basis anyhow.

SO here as a replacement half a year later, we can post these actual photos from the hardcore scene in NYC from the days before CBGB was a John Varvatos store, which are way more awesome than any Twin editorials anyhow.  Also, the lady that took them supposedly ended up being in The Silence of the Lambs and Grey’s Anatomy? Oh, okay. More after the jump. [via SB+TVC]

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(click for hi-res)
Much like I posted this past summer, here’s a week’s worth of winter outfits… dressing myself for NYC’s messy, cold weather requires some concessions to the elements. Every morning usually seems to involve putting on layers until it looks good, and then piling on more until I’m warm, but leaving enough flexibility to peel some off for overheated indoor spaces.  I always prefer layers of heavy wool tights and heavy boots over jeans (omg pants dragging in slush WORST THING EVAR) and while I’ve usually been a miniskirts-and-combat-boots kind of girl, but this  year, longer skirts and lace-up knee-high boots have been my uniform, along with lace, fur, and knits mixed with with grey and green variations from my usual black-and-white.
1 | dress LNA cardigan american apparel boots urban outfitters2 | dress american apparel corset, lace shirt h+m drape vest oak boots aldo3 | velvet skirt lyell tank alexander wang cardigan allsaints belt aldo boots urban outfitters4 | shirt helmut lang jacket h+m jeans acne boots dolce vita5 | dress cheap monday shirt free people fur vest h+m boots aldo

(click for hi-res)

Much like I posted this past summer, here’s a week’s worth of winter outfits… dressing myself for NYC’s messy, cold weather requires some concessions to the elements. Every morning usually seems to involve putting on layers until it looks good, and then piling on more until I’m warm, but leaving enough flexibility to peel some off for overheated indoor spaces. I always prefer layers of heavy wool tights and heavy boots over jeans (omg pants dragging in slush WORST THING EVAR) and while I’ve usually been a miniskirts-and-combat-boots kind of girl, but this year, longer skirts and lace-up knee-high boots have been my uniform, along with lace, fur, and knits mixed with with grey and green variations from my usual black-and-white.

1 | dress LNA cardigan american apparel boots urban outfitters
2 | dress american apparel corset, lace shirt h+m drape vest oak boots aldo
3 | velvet skirt lyell tank alexander wang cardigan allsaints belt aldo boots urban outfitters
4 | shirt helmut lang jacket h+m jeans acne boots dolce vita
5 | dress cheap monday shirt free people fur vest h+m boots aldo

Oh, hi there, girlfriend showin’ up in my googlereader at Jezebel, SocImages, and Autostraddle. What’s up?  The original’s over at Dis Magazine with a lil’ blurb about haircuts and performativity and Judy B and an all-too-brief mention of my beloved CYBORG THEORY (don’t ever tell me feminism isn’t fun). You can also buy the poster there (though I’m not sure how I feel about you having a photo of my gay hair poster child sigoth on yr wall.)
Incidentally but also Dis- and hair-related, above aformentioned gay hair poster child and I went over to the New Museum last weekend for the Dis folks’ lil’ talk about hair scrunchies, which I also meant to post about here, but it took a few days to recover from the trauma of the involved X-files fanfic reading involving Scully’s hair scrunchie and Mulder alone in his office late at night. 

Oh, hi there, girlfriend showin’ up in my googlereader at JezebelSocImages, and Autostraddle. What’s up?  The original’s over at Dis Magazine with a lil’ blurb about haircuts and performativity and Judy B and an all-too-brief mention of my beloved CYBORG THEORY (don’t ever tell me feminism isn’t fun). You can also buy the poster there (though I’m not sure how I feel about you having a photo of my gay hair poster child sigoth on yr wall.)

Incidentally but also Dis- and hair-related, above aformentioned gay hair poster child and I went over to the New Museum last weekend for the Dis folks’ lil’ talk about hair scrunchies, which I also meant to post about here, but it took a few days to recover from the trauma of the involved X-files fanfic reading involving Scully’s hair scrunchie and Mulder alone in his office late at night. 

The more I look at it the more I like this FW/10 collection from Siki Im, which I had the opportunity to see in an expandable-foam-like-snowdrift-skate-ramp-glass-box-diorama-situation this past Friday at the HL23 gallery space for the final installment of Building Fashion, a series of installations highlighting collaborations between architects and designers.  Im’s background as an architect and as a designer for both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang is obvious here, along with some pieces reminiscent of both a more subtle, office-friendly Rick Owens and that sort of 90’s Margiela deconstructed minimalism. While marketed and modelled as menswear Im insists the collection isn’t supposed to be distinctly either, and as excited as I got about uber-pro-looking wool manskirts paired with ties, chopped up blazers, and chunky knits, it was the restrained and decidedly-un-bondagey matte leather accent pieces which really did it for me.  I’m still coveting those double-wrap bracelets that go over both the knuckles and wrist, and love the single-strap, belt-like harnesses keeping some of the other pieces in place. 
While I’m at it, I know I’ve been terribly AWOL lately, due to any number of infinite reasons - but I’ve been writing up a storm for both Gucci Goth (here’s the  absurd mix I made for our week of mixes) and Oaknyc’s Oakazine (recent pieces on Gabriela Marina Gonzalez and Barbara I Gongini.) Both of which, you know, you should probably be reading as well. 

The more I look at it the more I like this FW/10 collection from Siki Im, which I had the opportunity to see in an expandable-foam-like-snowdrift-skate-ramp-glass-box-diorama-situation this past Friday at the HL23 gallery space for the final installment of Building Fashion, a series of installations highlighting collaborations between architects and designers.  Im’s background as an architect and as a designer for both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang is obvious here, along with some pieces reminiscent of both a more subtle, office-friendly Rick Owens and that sort of 90’s Margiela deconstructed minimalism. While marketed and modelled as menswear Im insists the collection isn’t supposed to be distinctly either, and as excited as I got about uber-pro-looking wool manskirts paired with ties, chopped up blazers, and chunky knits, it was the restrained and decidedly-un-bondagey matte leather accent pieces which really did it for me.  I’m still coveting those double-wrap bracelets that go over both the knuckles and wrist, and love the single-strap, belt-like harnesses keeping some of the other pieces in place. 

While I’m at it, I know I’ve been terribly AWOL lately, due to any number of infinite reasons - but I’ve been writing up a storm for both Gucci Goth (here’s the  absurd mix I made for our week of mixes) and Oaknyc’s Oakazine (recent pieces on Gabriela Marina Gonzalez and Barbara I Gongini.) Both of which, you know, you should probably be reading as well. 

First ever trashtastic Halloween costume turns out to be, uh, probably the trashiest thing I’ve ever worn, so perhaps I’m glad that this awkward photo is the only somewhat full-length of the getup? I was psyched on how many people came up to me (from Top 8 to Visionaire’s impossibly classy Halloween party at PS1, which involved some of the wildest and most elaborate costumes I’ve ever seen, though there also were about 18 models dressed as cats in Miu Miu cat collars and Karmen Pedaru in that red velvet Altuzarra catsuit?) screeching about the awesomeness of Blade Runner.  Though I did also get asked if I was Taylor Momsen a few times. WHICH I REALLY FEEL OKAY ABOUT.
shorts alexander wang mesh shirt, tights, thigh highs, etc american apparel  boots s2a

First ever trashtastic Halloween costume turns out to be, uh, probably the trashiest thing I’ve ever worn, so perhaps I’m glad that this awkward photo is the only somewhat full-length of the getup? I was psyched on how many people came up to me (from Top 8 to Visionaire’s impossibly classy Halloween party at PS1, which involved some of the wildest and most elaborate costumes I’ve ever seen, though there also were about 18 models dressed as cats in Miu Miu cat collars and Karmen Pedaru in that red velvet Altuzarra catsuit?) screeching about the awesomeness of Blade Runner.  Though I did also get asked if I was Taylor Momsen a few times. WHICH I REALLY FEEL OKAY ABOUT.

shorts alexander wang
mesh shirt, tights, thigh highs, etc american apparel 
boots s2a

american museum of natural history

The American Museum of Natural History was one of my favourite things EVER as a kid: I really, really liked dinosaurs and rocks (no, really, I was really into rocks), and also any excuse my parents had to take me into the city.   As an adult it’s no less awesome, but the whole place seems vaguely like a giant decaying Hall of Colonialism, Native/Primeval/Primitive People In Glass Boxes, Strange and Outdated Dioramas, and Obsessive-Compulsive Nineteenth Century Taxonomy.  What makes it even weirder is the contrast between parts of the museum - the Hayden Planetarium and parts of the dinosaur halls are all shiny glass and chrome complete with interactive computers and touch screens, whereas the Hall of Minerals, a strange multi-levelled mass of grey-carpeted stairs where the crystals are still labelled with typewriter-font-labels claiming they came from Yugoslavia and the USSR, apparently hasn’t changed at all since I first saw it sometime in the mid 80’s.  Nor has the section on New York ecosystems, where the crumbling dried leaves, taxidermied woodland creatures, and dusty hand-stenciled dioramas complete with strange clay miniatures are set into pine-panelled walls next to hand-painted murals.  The whole place somehow functions as a relic of weird old Americana without even trying to be, and I hope they never change it.

It also is basically a giant box of internet tumblr memes, like, uh, dark rooms full of triangles and crystals, dinosaurs, wood panelled walls, marginalization of brown people, weird animals, bizarre malproportioned watercolour/pastel/coloured pencil drawings of extinct weird animals, and gift shop kitsch.  More photos after the jump.

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And today, in Slightly Offensive Things We Already Knew And Sadly Could Have Done Ourselves With A Box Of Crayons And A Map Of The City, And We All Also Already Saw On Gawker But I’m Reposting Anyway: racial demographics of NYC!  More cities available at Eric Fischer’s Flickr. Fun extra credit project here: compare this to the Netflix rentals by zip code the NYT put together a few months back. (As well as all the highly entertaining maps at Very Small Array, which you also probably should be looking at occasionally if you are not already.)
(As a both self-critical and critical-of-demographic-statistics side note which I noticed after being all “WTF is that cluster of pink in Crown Heights all about?!” and realizing that I had some sort of charming metal thing going on where “Hasidic Jews =/= White People” (which, wait - is that subconsciously antisemitic of me, or would it be culturally insensitive to consider them “white people” especially considering the isolationist real estate dramarama with the community in this city?) — I also find it interesting how little this map also conveys — aformentioned tensions with Hasidic communities in South Williamsburg and Crown Heights can’t be understood at all from this map alone, nor the heavy Russian or Polish populations throughout parts of Brooklyn, nor the fact that East Harlem is mostly Puerto Rican while Bushwick is largely Dominican and other Latino, etc, etc.  I’d also really love to see this map as a time lapse over years — did you know Bushwick was once largely populated by Germans?)

And today, in Slightly Offensive Things We Already Knew And Sadly Could Have Done Ourselves With A Box Of Crayons And A Map Of The City, And We All Also Already Saw On Gawker But I’m Reposting Anyway: racial demographics of NYC!  More cities available at Eric Fischer’s Flickr. Fun extra credit project here: compare this to the Netflix rentals by zip code the NYT put together a few months back. (As well as all the highly entertaining maps at Very Small Array, which you also probably should be looking at occasionally if you are not already.)

(As a both self-critical and critical-of-demographic-statistics side note which I noticed after being all “WTF is that cluster of pink in Crown Heights all about?!” and realizing that I had some sort of charming metal thing going on where “Hasidic Jews =/= White People” (which, wait - is that subconsciously antisemitic of me, or would it be culturally insensitive to consider them “white people” especially considering the isolationist real estate dramarama with the community in this city?) — I also find it interesting how little this map also conveys — aformentioned tensions with Hasidic communities in South Williamsburg and Crown Heights can’t be understood at all from this map alone, nor the heavy Russian or Polish populations throughout parts of Brooklyn, nor the fact that East Harlem is mostly Puerto Rican while Bushwick is largely Dominican and other Latino, etc, etc.  I’d also really love to see this map as a time lapse over years — did you know Bushwick was once largely populated by Germans?)

fashion history + the silk city

Secret history geek that I am, I loved this little video with a brief history of the fashion industry and Fashion Week here in NYC, more than a little bit in comparison to the NYFW madness going on around me.  I was psyched to see a video from a publication that addressed fashion history in terms beyond what the biggest designers sent down the runway and the richest, whitest women wore to the most public events; it’s easy for us to forget the sheer number of people participating in the fashion industry, the large majority of whom cannot wear any of the clothing actually produced, and also of the extent to which the development of an American fashion industry is closely intertwined with the development of both American and NYC identity and history, on all levels from labor organization to architecture. 

Which got me thinking historically about things I’d forgotten — much of my family hails from Paterson, NJ, nicknamed the “Silk City” for its heavy silk an textile production in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and a huge percentage of my family worked in the textile and clothing industries in various ways, from working in the silk mills to working at the now-defunct Meyer Brothers department store, which is taking epic amounts of internet research to find anything about ANYWHERE, alas! (My grandfather is full of stories of working in the “dye-house,” as he calls it. He was probably, like, 14.)

And so: Lil’ history lesson after the jump! So you can stop looking at everyone’s iPhone shots of the runway for 10 minutes!

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