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You know, if you get told you look like Juliette Lewis at least once a week, like to the point where strangers on the street/in restaurants/in stores tell you this, to the point where you complete their sentence of “Did anyone ever tell you that you look just like — ” with “…Juliette Lewis, but like less wacky, I know,” and/or when you, irritated with the whole thing, post photos of her as your Facebook default, your friends actually Still Think It Is You, sometimes you just need to throw all modesty, self-consciousness, ambivalence and good taste to the wind and pull out the shortest, tightest, flashiest dress you own and mess your hair up and figure oh, what the hell, if it works for Juliette it works for me.  (Besides, I’m completely obsessed with these House of Holland socks, and there’s really no way to go for “subtle” when you’re wearing gartered/suspender overknee socks that look like the elastic on men’s underwear.)

dress american apparel
tights duane reade
garters & socks house of holland
jacket april77
creepers underground

This weekend, in between coats of paint in my living room, I ended up Netflixing The Wings of the Dove, which is of course a fantastically self-indulgent period piece based on a Henry James novel featuring Helena Bonham Carter in an infinite amount of silly hats and the long, flowing Grecian-style dresses, hobble skirts, and fancy umbrellas of the early 20th century.  (Which in turn lead to the usual internet k-hole of historical fashion research…expect a post-Victorian pre-20s image dump post soon!)  Though it wasn’t intentional, I think this was on my mind when I put this together — the Fortuny-esque pleats of the skirt and the wide V-neck definitely mimic those silhouettes that I’ve been compulsively saving to my hard drive for the past week.

I wore this to work with a frumpy cardigan and my crazy hair down and felt like it was really casual albeit a lil’ witchy, but once I braided my hair up (stupid half-grown out bangs and increasingly enormous mane can be solved by two things only: a series of messy french braids pulled back into a high bun, or 60s-esque teasing and a bottle of hairspray with a headband) it suddenly looked unexpectedly formal.  Same with my day-to-day makeup here: matte foundation, a slight cat-eye that starts only at the edge of your eye (rather than tracing the lid), a shimmery white powder at the inner corner of your eye, mascara, and a matte red lipstick takes about 4 minutes to do and with the right clothes seemed suddenly very classic Hollywood glamour. (Softboxed speedlite to improvise butterfly/George-Hurrell-esque lighting doesn’t hurt with photographing it that way, either — shh!)

skirt h+m
tank h+m
wedges opening ceremony

audrey marnay by ellen von unwerth valerie phillips di$count kate + devon, david lachapelle sea of shoes badlands

Because sometimes we all need a little personal reference board of “how the hell do I want to dress myself this month again I can’t remember what kind of clothes I was into HELP INTERNET PLEASE ADVISE.”

The answer to that “if you could only wear one designer for the rest of your life” question is, for me, always and indisputably Helmut Lang.  Quality, minimal tailoring, a solid drape and damn nice leather jackets have somehow looked impossibly chic for years now: the subtlety and consistency of the whole shebang always makes me want to buy every last piece even if nothing really amazing or new has happened there in years.  Twitter blew up over those Van Gogh prints at Rodarte this season, but the Richard-Serra-inspired texture prints and architectural cuts at Helmut Lang’s first runway show in years interested me so much more — again, the subtlety is so much more compelling than the loud, flashy, and obvious.

So of course, Luxirare’s recent post of old Helmut Lang ad campaigns kicked me off on another ridiculous internet research spiral for more. Awesome photographers (Mapplethorpe, Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber), uncomfortably close or decontextualized macro shots, and that vague, disconnected, and blasé sexuality — it’s basically perfect, NBD.

NYFW SS2012: GRETCHEN JONES

We have discussed my ever-growing obsession with crazy acid bright digital prints, yes? We have also discussed how I work with a bunch of really amazing people, and one of them is Gretchen Jones, who aside from making awesome things is also one of the nicest humans ever? Yes, okay. So it’s already obvious then that I was way psyched on Gretchen’s presentation yesterday, but I’m going to tell you about it anyway.

The presentation was staged as a police lineup, with twenty numbered near-identical blonde models stepping forward when their number was barked over a loudspeaker.  I love the layering of the same piece in different colours and the fact that so many of the pieces are convertible and can be worn in different ways, but my favourite part is the fabric (and that’s not just because I saw the prints go from computer screen to swatch to dress over the past few months, I swear!)  The blue one on that mermaid maxi skirt (think we know what I’ll be buying here) is actually the 2012 lunar cycle superimposed over the ocean, and the one that looks like a brown floral or prisms is actually a kaleidescope-type print of horses like the background of her website. Makeup was kept simple except for a bright raspberry lip from OCC Lip Tar and the braids made me anxious for my hair to grow out more.

IN WHICH WE PROPOSE A DIFFERENT KIND OF FASHION WEEK FEATURE.

HELLO FRIENDS! I need to ask you a favor.

It is fashion week here in New York again! Again! It never stops! Every time I try to come up with some like, witty conceptual post or whatever instead of admitting to the fact that I’m just going to spend the next week running around in offensive shoes grabbing up all the free drinks my grubby little hands can find and then leaning disaffectedly against every wall I can find for some charming problem-tennis banter about whose jobs or editors or whatever are just more stressful or whatever it is we actually do all week, but it is not an easy thing to do!

Of course we can expect a flurry of posts of photos of shows and wacky outfits and Internet Blog Friends Who Are Now IRL Friends and everything! But also! It seems like another kind of fashion week feature might be nice here.

I am sure we have all noticed by now that most fashion bloggers are, you know, Beautiful Skinny Straight White Girls With Bottomless Bank Accounts And Access To Very Lovely Things.  Which I suspect may not always line up with, you know, People Who Are Interested In Fashion In General.  This isn’t to say that the skinny girls who can afford all that Proenza or whatever aren’t lovely and talented and stylish and brilliant people whose blogs I read all the time! Many of them deserve every last bit of attention and free stuff and internet love that they get, because they are amazing!

But I know there are surely TONS of other fabulous fashion and style blogs out there who get a little less mainstream attention for whatever reasons — that the writers are people of colour, or are less wealthy and making most of their own clothes, or are queer, or are visibly queer, or are trans ladies or trans men, or are stylish curvy ladies, or maybe have some kind of disability, or maybe have survived something which provides them with unique perspective, or maybe are Muslim ladies who choose to dress modestly and have killer style, or maybe are just people who are older than 30.

And I get so many questions and emails asking about them! So many! It is amazing how many people ask me if I can recommend any fashion and style blogs like that! Because you guys are awesome, and because it’s true, it is frustratingly hard to find inspiration from anyone who is somehow a little bit outside the arbitrary media-prescribed norm, people who are stylish and love fashion even though everyone else often seems to (wrongly) suggest that fashion just isn’t meant for them.  

The point is: I feel bummed that I don’t have a great list somewhere to immediately direct questioners to and also to highlight the amazingness of all these people whose amazingness may not get highlighted as often as it ought to. Which is why I’m asking for your input! I was super psyched to be included in Threadbared’s list of queer fashion bloggers last year — and I want to compile something like that here, but beyond just queer (though obviously queer blogs are to be included.)

SO!  What are the other blogs you read and love that fall a little outside of whatever is dictated as normative by fashion, people who are super talented but aren’t as likely to get featured by Refinery29 as the next big style blogger or whatever? Go to town, kids. Link everything you want in the comments and I’ll compile them into my own list here sometime in the next week, since I think all of our Google Reader lists could probably use a fashion week makeover.

skirt + shirt h+m
boots
timberland

Pre-fashion week daytrip escape upstate to visit the Dia at Beacon — sometimes getting out of the city and out of my usual sky-high heels is a necessity.  (See, I wear practical shoes and crap from H+M sometimes too!) 

THINGS NEW YORK HAS LEAD ME TO BELIEVE ARE NORMAL, PART DEUX.

A Cathartic Meditation On Things Currently Wrong With My Apartment, Which Is The Nicest One I Have Ever Lived In And Which I Still Genuinely Consider To Be “A Really Great Situation”

OR, Notes On Sense Of Place To Characterize “Post-Collegiate Recession Life In Brooklyn With A Low-Paying Job In Some Glamorous Industry” In Future Thinly Veiled Autobiographical Short Stories Which I Will Never Do Anything With


I. Things we are optimistically working to independently resolve due to unresponsiveness of landlord and superintendent, OR, ongoing self-improvement projects

  • Moldering wall due to Leak #1: living room pipe and window, and the aftermath of the notorious Irene-induced pustulent wall-blister situation
  • Caulking cracks in bathroom and floorboard; expanding foam around pipes and major holes. See also: roach situation which we are certain comes from neighbors
  • Leaky kitchen sink; now fixed thanks to the various merits of Having A Handy Girlfriend
  • Trivial and easily resolved inconveniences including but not limited to: lack of storage, poor lighting, uneven paint jobs, etc.


III. Things I am unable to fix, but on which the landlord and superintendent remain unresponsive, OR, ongoing struggles for attention

  • Bedroom ceiling blister (roughly human-head sized) and concomitant rust stains due to Leak #2: unidentified source, presumably radiator related (occurs only when heat is on)
  • Lack of hot water after midnight
  • Lack of functional hot water tap in bathroom sink, cause unknown
  • Major Electrical Problem #1, current duration 15 days, potentially due to a Hairdryer Sisyphus Ghost who is damned to use a very high voltage hair dryer for all eternity without their hair ever drying, somehow on my apartment’s circuit, resulting in permanent brownout with constant flickering and related problems, including occasional difficulties with using stove or oven due to electric ignition; inability to use microwave, hotpot, flat iron, or other devices requiring a steady current at all; interruption in wireless internet broadcasting; fridge at room temperature due to lack of sufficient electricity for constant cooling and the consequential Rotting Of All Our Food And Condiments. But! At least I am not doomed to flip my head upside down and have it remain permanently damp for all eternity like the Hairdryer Sisyphus Ghost who has caused this whole thing, and for whom I have nothing but great pity.
  • Major Electrical Problem #2, duration usually five minutes to five hours, mostly self-resolving due to seasonal nature: building-wide blackouts due to circuit overloads mostly on days over 95 degrees. Superintendent’s solution: “Don’t use the air conditioning,” despite the fact that we do not have air conditioning.


III.  Things my landlord has fixed in the past and estimated delay in action from first to second or third hysterical phone calls and eventual resolution, OR, things to restore my faith in either humanity and “the system”

  • Replaced broken stove (1 week)
  • Fixed entire wall of bathroom tile which collapsed mid-shower (5 days)


IV. Things I consider real perks about my living situation, OR, things I have been told are not actually considered perks elsewhere and are either “things to take for granted” or “things which are not normal” but which I cling to, desperately, as major perks

  • Almost 400 square feet for less than $1200 a month
  • Location less than two blocks from train!
  • Lack of bell or intercom, but location on third floor means running downstairs to let people in is not unnecessarily difficult
  • At least 12 restaurants which deliver to my location
  • Numerous bodegas nearby, including an option of “the ones that sell Newman-O’s and organic peanut butter” and “the ones that sell Oreos and Kraft Mac N Cheese” within a three block radius
  • Landlord and superintendent with at least conversational command of the language I speak
  • Thugs who hang out on stoop are relatively benign; sell only marijuana, do not attempt to peddle residents their wares, do not hit on me or make lewd comments, even when I am wearing Possibly Inappropriately Small Running Shorts
  • Windows which face courtyard/alley permit decent light but protect from weather and street noise
  • Neighbors have repeatedly ripped alarm and lock off door to roof, permitting roof access with Actually Amazingly Nice View of Manhattan
  • No mice, probably partially due to really cute building kitties!

Part one of this ongoing meltdown can be found here.

jil sander raphael young givenchy charlotte olympia camilla skovgaard ysl, of course casadei lanvin marni victor + rolf

Maybe it’s just that I weathered Irene with an overdose of the first season of Mad Men on Netflix, or, alternately, maybe it’s just been an overdose of insane sculptural wedges and giant boots these past few seasons, or just blogger Atacoma Lita overload? Either way, I’ve been obsessing over really basic pumps lately. Minimalist with a basic shift! With a pair of tight black jeans, a white tee, and a blazer or leather jacket! With ratty jeans and layers like all Olsened out! All sweet with socks and stuff! With ugly frumpy socks like Prada FW10! Preppy! With a lot of texture like Meagan just did! Aaah!

Whatever. Kelly would be into it.

shift vintage
necklace langoliers
tights aa
boots surface to air 

I’ve been playing with colour more often lately but at the end of the day most of my wardrobe is still minimal black basics and most of my outfits are just that with a focus on accessories. Plus I told you I was back in a serious bodycon mini phase. Oops.  

Things to note! Amazing necklace a gift from the lovely Langoliers! Look they have a website now! You can buy things and poke around the weird underground of their site where you can read things we wrote about TS Eliot or whatever! Also! Davines Nounou conditioner, Davines sea salt spray, and my windy roof are apparently the most wonderful things to ever happen to my hair I bet it will never look like this again oh well! Also: Sally Hansen crackle nail polish, ooh.

Looking back over FW2011 collections as the season for wearing them actually approaches — Jen Kao, which I found underwhelming six months ago, somehow now seems totally perfect. Digital prints in acid green, pink, and turquoise? Bodycon minis and mermaid skirts? Chain mail? Those boots? Mindblowing.

If anyone wants to come up with any tutorials for marbling/painting on leather or anything so I can attempt to DIY those myself — go right ahead. It needs to happen.

LENTILS WITH COUSCOUS AND MINT

I’ve been trying to make an effort to cook at home and bring lunch to work more often,  and as a result I’ve been spending my Sundays preparing giant bowls of salads that I can grab and go in the mornings.  This lentil salad is one of my favourites — it’s spicy, sweet, refreshing, filling, and ridiculously easy to make (well, if you like chopping, which I totally do, OH GOD YOU GUYS I COULD JULIENNE PEPPERS ALL DAY THE BEST STRESS RELIEF EVER IS DICING CELERY I LOVE KNIVES.) We also already know about my near-obsessive ongoing love affair with fresh mint — and this is just another option for it before summer’s over.

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ON RIOTS AND YACHTS

“But what do people do on boats?” I asked.  ”I just don’t get it. How long do you stay on the boat and am I going to get sick and do people bring food or am I going to have to help make the boat work or do you just like float around and am I going to get wet and what do I talk about with the kind of people who own boats? Who owns boats anyway? How much does a boat cost?” 

A coworker had invited my girlfriend to go sailing on their yacht after work, an invitation which had been extended somewhat tersely to “partners” — a word which, coming from people who are old and straight and rich and conservative but at heart still genuinely “nice people,” has always sounded uncomfortable to me, a politically correct and sanitized way to acknowledge nonheterosexual relationships without the embarrassment of explicit reference to gender.  A self-consciously magnanimous attempt at generous inclusion of that other kind of people, a well-intentioned but tight-lipped tolerance without wholehearted acceptance — something nice, something I give people credit for, but that always leaves a sour taste in my mouth.  Would it be un-partner-ly of me not to go, or would I ruin their boat party simply by merit of being that, a partner? But more importantly, what was this even going to entail?

My friends assured me that it would be nice — calm down, they said! It’s just a boat! They invited you, you crazy person!  It’ll be nice!  ”But what do I do?” I asked them frantically. “What do people do on boats? Do I compliment them on their boat? Do I need to bring champagne? I can’t afford champagne until I get paid Friday. Can I wear Converse? I don’t have boat shoes. I’ve never been on a yacht, what are yachts even like?”

“Take a Xanax and don’t talk about politics,” my friend advised. “Maybe wear a floppy hat. There will be booze.”

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OH HELLO WE HAVE FLEXIBLE NECKS HI THAR apparently there are alpaca competitions alpacas wear alpaca socks HI THAR

So sometimes you’re all, oh hey guys, I’m at the beach with my parents for the weekend, and before you know it, you’re on an alpaca farm, chillin’ with some alpacas. NBD.

Should you, perchance, wish to learn more about the “wonderfully entertaining and amusing” and “very different personalities” of each of the lovely little walking internet memes/sweater-shedders above (they have names! when you buy a sweater from them, they tell you which one the wool came from!) as well as more photos of them and a few mindblowing photoshop jobs, you can do so at the farm’s website here.

dress maison martin margiela
shoes messeca
belt aldo
bracelet oak

I found this Margiela dress — tags still on, retail sixteen times what I paid for it — crumpled at the back of a rack at Beacon’s Closet, where everyone else had no doubt mistaken it for a wrinkled, weirdly cut shiny Ann Taylor reject bizbro-girlfriend dress.  The deliberately-wrinkled fabric, bizarro purple iridescence, and minimalist shift silhouette kind of grossed me out at first — which of course morphed into “this needs to be mine immediately” after about ten seconds. It’s like a hilarious 90s businesswoman costume or waitress uniform or something! But shiny! And Margiela!

Also, new shoes: haven’t taken them off my feet since they showed up last week. OCD quest for perfect brick red lipstick continues as well… LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ONE THAT IS EXCELLENT, OH DEAR READERS. Here I mixed up MAC Viva Glam 1 with MAC Film Noir and put some weird shiny black gloss on top — almost what I’ve been after, but not quite.