AND TODAY IN 90’S EDITORIAL GOODNESS, we bring you more 90s-pop-feminism-influenced fashion-androgyny by which I mean “Stella Tennant and then some nakie models with messy hair,” plus the last time that neon opaque blue and yellow lipstick was a thing! 

Previously: Arena Homme eds by Stevens Meisel & Klein, the Self Service archives, and more Arena Homme from ‘96. It’s okay if you go ahead and print it all out and paper your walls with it, ‘cuz I was thinking about that too.

[Via the TFS vintage magazines thread, which I could obviously spend weeks browsing.]

skirt gretchen jones
shirt nudie jeans
jacket wilson
boots surface to air

One of the perks of working in fashion is that when, say, you’re wearing a leeeeettle-bit-too-short-skirt and your stockings suddenly bust open in a giant run, like, an unforgivable totally not-cute underwear-baring gaping nightmare run of horror and shame, not that these things happen to me ALL THE GODDAMNED TIME, WHY, WHY TIGHTS, WHY DO YOU HATE ME, there’s usually a rack of samples somewhere in the office to come to the rescue for the rest of the day before you steam them and return them safely to their rack with a sigh of relief before running home to hide from the universe and bemoan your ability (or lack thereof) to ever be a real grownup. Anyhow!

This Gretchen Jones skirt saved me last week, and, goddamnit, I think I’m going to have to get it for real now because I kind of love it. It was one of those things I’d really liked on the rack but never thought it would work on me — it just seemed a little more girly and boho than I usually roll, and I tend to have a hard time with prints.  But it worked fortuitously well with the outfit I had on that day — which originally had included a black wool mini instead — and fit in oddly well with my otherwise chains-and-leather-and-grungy-beanie steeze.

We may also notice that I bought another pair of those Surface to Air wedges that we saw me covet and eventually buy here like in 2009 and after wearing the old ones to three separate deaths, each time resurrected by a shoemaker with a little less vitality until finally they were beyond hope, they popped up on Gilt for, well, cheap. SO I JUST BOUGHT THE SAME PAIR OF SHOES AGAIN. Which feels sort of stupid, but whatever, I’m way psyched about it.

IN DEFENSE OF THE HOT MESS / A CALL FOR LADY ANTIHEROES

Lately I’ve been really into weird concepts of something like failed, desperate, self-conscious deliberate performative femininity? Part of this is evidenced by the fact that I’ve been doing my hair in big curls with my kinda-crappy-blonde-dye-job and wearing a ridiculous faux-leopard coat with ripped tights and messy eyeliner, and part of it comes together more in at least 47 different e-mail conversations about books and movies with “unrepentantly fucked up” lady characters that I’ve been having with at least 5 different people of late.  Some of these ideas have been written very eloquently by other folks already, and some of it is obvious and some of it is still vague, and all of it is definitely not “complete,” so, like, go at it in the comments, y’all, I wanna know what you’re thinking.

It begins, I think, with my ongoing frustration that when we are presented with male characters (or personas, or even real persons) who are basically bad people with one redeeming quality (still sleeps with a teddy bear, is a brilliant filmmaker) we let that one redeeming quality, you know, redeem them, and are collectively charmed by their fucked-up-ness.  But I have a really hard time coming up with similar female examples: all of the ones I can think of we have opted to either lambast or concern-troll instead.  And we always need to redeem them. They always need to learn something or be rescued, which we all know is basically the opposite of how the world really works.  Kids, I am a hot mess, and almost all of the women I admire and love and am fascinated by are also hot fucking messes, and I so rarely see that represented in a real, nuanced, and fascinating way.  To simplify: I am eternally tearing my hair out over the fact that I desperately want more female antiheroes. In books, film, pop culture personas, whatever.  And I’ve been seeing this idea come up again and again lately.

As a brief list of some of what I’m referencing: There’s this Lana Del Rey album review, which is kind of the most astute thing I’ve read on her yet, and which hit the nail on the head of my bizarre, obsessive preoccupation with her and her aesthetic — though it condemned her where I obviously am fascinated instead.  There was that Marie Calloway brouhaha, and the fantastic response to it all from Kate Zambreno, which also lead to The Rejectionist’s interview with her here.  There were a bunch of folks over at Emily Books who managed to somehow misread a lot of lesbian moralism into Eileen Myles’ Inferno, when I thought it was just a book about, like, someone very funny and intelligent and unapologetic, who also lived a life that reminds me an awful lot of my life now. There was Charlize Theron in Young Adult, who would have been way fascinating if not for Diablo Cody’s frustrating insistence on de-nuancing her characters in favor of twee trope-tastic banter.  There’s Cat Marnell at XOJane and the no-nonsense-it’s-okay-to-be-human writing at Rookie.   Sarah’s and my Rayanne Project (which sort of fizzled out probably partially because I am a little bit too much of a whacked-out womanchild to coordinate and motivate folks to write me things like that, but the stuff that’s up there is still amazeballs!)  The Amy-Winehouse-inspired couture collection that Gaultier showed yesterday.  Courtney Love, like, in general.

I am really into this, you guys.

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MESSY CHOPPY BABY BANGS I WILL RESIST I WILL RESIST I WILL NOT CUT MY HAIR I AM LETTING IT GROW I JUST BLEACHED IT ANYHOW I CAN GROW OUT MY BANGS I CAN DO IT I WILL RESIST I WILL RESIST HALP PLZ SEND HELP DON’T LET ME DO IT DON’T LET ME PLEASE

For whatever reason I’ve been sort of not super jazzed up on fashion lately? Maybe it’s winter blues (no snow but I still have to wear tights and 47 layers every day!? what is this!?) or maybe it’s that I’ve been busy with 18 other projects — but the good ole “fashion blogging universe” has just sort of been not keeping my attention super well this past month or so.

But! Let’s not be depressing! So instead of talking about my irritation at this (lies, I’ll just talk about it parenthetically! check it out! a bunch of old white dudes and a few token black guys and a lady or two! how interesting! and by interesting I mean “god how depressing is everything ever” but ANYHOW) let’s feel enthusiastic about lady photographers and how much I love New York, right?! As if I don’t post about these things enough!  But these people seem obvious to me but maybe you have not encountered them before, so.  Berenice Abbott!

Berenice Abbott’s “Changing New York” — her exhaustive collection of photos of New York in the 1930’s, the archives of which now live over at the NYPL — is awesome for all of the reasons we always love photos of New York in ages past, right?  It’s part “Oh snap! That’s the Starrett Lehigh building! Once I totally bombed an interview at a studio there!” and part fascination at the things we don’t recognize; something both familiar and bittersweet about the things that are both the same despite the things that are different, like the persistent stark contrast of poverty and wealth, of new and old, that seems in so many ways to define this city.  

There’s also the fact that while Abbott was known primarily for her photographs of New York (and a bunch of boring science stuff, like photographing balls in motion yaawwwwnnnn) those of us in on the joke can deduce pretty quickly what “lived with Djuna Barnes in the Village for a while” probably means.  (Unsurprisingly, some of her photos are in that Hide/Seek show at the Brooklyn Museum that I still haven’t gone to because I suck but I’m going Thursday I swear!)  Abbott’s portraits — of herself, of Barnes, Janet Flanner, Gertrude Stein, Edna St Vincent Millay, Betty Parsons, and more — can be read also as a not-so-subtle but still-unspoken record of queer identities in her era in New York and Paris. Cool!

albieats:

my grandmother’s drawings. circa 1930’s.

THIS IS SO COOL

(via dutyjoke)

zomg the last one is like a dog version of

(via giraffegiraf)

Sudden cathartic realization of THE FASHIONS and AESTHETICS: I basically just want my entire life to look like the hypersaturated pop-religion floral sequinned over-the-top faux-branded clusterfuck of the 1996 version of Romeo+Juliet, forever all of the time. Which I hated at the time — I was what, in junior high school the first time I saw it? and not particularly interested in liking anything, let alone Leonardo diCaprio, ew, that was for dumb girls — but have become oddly re-obsessed with in the past year.  And a bit of googlin’ revealed that the costume designer was the same lady who did the costumes for The Matrix. Of course!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(Source: helloskim, via tokyoluxcouture)

jeremy scott

feel like i’m kind of ‘bad at blogging’ lately and maybe i should just ‘make this more of a tumblr’ like it used to be

IN OTHER NEWS, I MADE PHO FROM SCRATCH YESTERDAY and while I’m sure it wasn’t quite ‘authentic’ it sure was delicious, and a hell of a lot easier than I’d been expecting, actually.  I combined bits of this recipe and this one for the broth, then soaked some rice noodles, dry-fried some soft tofu (let me tell you, dry-frying tofu will CHANGE YOUR LIFE, why this isn’t more commonly known as the way to make it not suck is a mystery to me) and then let it sit in soy sauce/garlic/scallions for a lil’ bit while I chopped up some carrots, onions, peppers, and broccoli. Then I dumped the noodles and tofu and veggies in a bowl and then poured the still-boiling broth over the whole mess with a bunch of scallions, cilantro, mint, lime, sririacha and hoison.  And I still have a few litres of broth frozen to pour over noodles and veggies for super-fast cold-curing soup amazingness in days to come!

#GPOYW MERMAID HAIR EDITION

So this happened!

THIS IS THE LAST TIME WE TALK ABOUT LISBETH SALANDER OR H+M, I PROMISE

Sarah and I have been e-mailing way too much about this goddamned Lisbeth Salander collection, which I’ve mentioned before? Yes? Anyhow she wrote a good thing about it so I don’t need to write another thing since it’s all the things I would think anyhow (we’re serious about the intern), but I am still e-mailing about it and wringing my hands becuase GODDAMNIT I WANT IT I HATE IT BUT IT’S SO CHEAP AND IT LOOKS CUTE WHY AM I HAVING SO MANY FEELINGS ABOUT STUPID FUCKING HOODIES WITH THUMBHOLES. And then I found a bunch of photos of the actual collection pieces, and then I realized something.

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